Black Sheep Coffee

Why I love it

Right on St Peter's Square with the trams gliding past the window — the "leave the herd behind" crew pour robusta-forward espresso that hits harder than most of the city's arabica. Open from half six in the morning, dog-friendly, and the square-side seats are some of the best people-watching in town.

What to try

• A robusta flat white — stronger than you're used to
• The Norwegian waffles
• A window seat when the trams light up at dusk